A popular happy hour/dinner spot in the Financial District of San Francisco, Per Diem restaurant takes a playful advantage of its location. The cocktail list, titled “Liquid Assets” is divided in two parts – “Old Money” and “New Money,” the latter boasting original libations like “Mergers and Acquisitions” and “Tax Haven” as well as an entire “Manhattan Project” with an impressive array of customized Manhattans (try Buffalo Trace Bourbon with Carpano Anitica vermouth and house-made black walnut bitters).
Michelin-starred Chef Matthew
Bousquet, at the help of Per Diem since September, puts strong emphasis on
authenticity, purity, and integrity of California-grown ingredients finding
creative ways to combine seasonal (if sometimes strange) bedfellows in delightfully
harmonious dishes.
House-made crème fraiche sauce with coconut cream, lemongrass
and jalapeno elevates the old familiar Steamed PEI Mussels to a new level of pure
perfection – thankfully, the dish is served with two large toasts, and a spoon that
can be used for sauce consumption.
Braised Pork Belly is generously cut, melt-in-your-mouth
soft, served on a bed of pleasantly grainy quinoa, and garnished with black
grapes, wilted Tuscan kale, cipollini onions, refreshingly vinegary Banyuls
sauce, and sage-pecan crumble, sprinkled all over it for added crunch.
The Chef’s pride and joy is a lavish Bone Marrow & Escargot
juxtaposing silky marrow with chewy snails, saline capers, diced fresh tomatoes,
garlic, and Bordelaise sauce with Pernod butter and herbs.
All of the above are just starters, substantial enough to be
paired with Beverage Director Brandon
Thrash’s elaborate yet well-balanced libations. “Bimbo” cocktail from the “New
Money” is made with Ketel One vodka, Elderflower liqueur, Combier Pamplemousse,
Crème de Cassis, and lime juice.
Historically-referenced “1906” contains gin, Fernet Branca,
Cynar, sweet vermouth, and house-made orange bitters. “Mergers and Acquisitions”
from “Gin for Gin Haters” [special program] is based on a small-production
local Junipero Gin.
Brandon is determined to introduce a new generation of
gin-makers and their higher quality product, and also to achieve more control
over his own product through made in-house infusions, bitters, and syrups.
The combined effort of the kitchen and the bar brings
excellent results, and although a fair number of clad in black financiers can
be spotted at Per Diem on any night, the restaurant caters to a much wider
audience of the local and visiting gourmands.
Among the entrees, Lamb Sugo is one of the must-haves. Slow roasted
lamb cheeks are smothered with braised tomatoes, Brussels, Jerusalem artichoke
and fennel bulb slices in natural jus; polenta, Valbreso feta and rosemary
butter adding more subtle nuances to the outstanding dish.
Pan Roasted Pork Chop is definitely not like any other pork
chop. Cooked medium and retaining its natural juiciness, a hefty portion of succulent
bone-in meat is garnished with amazingly tasty Red Kuri squash, sprinkled with crunchy
crumbs; wine-braised red cabbage, apple puree, and mustard sauce.
Desserts are also made in house, and also by the Chef, so
not surprisingly, they are positively decadent and indulgent. Apple Clafoutis
sounds deceptively simple, made of very loose batter baked in a buttered dish and
big chunks of caramelized apples – a recipe from an apple farm. It’s served
with a scoop of vanilla ice cream with a caramel swirl.
Chocolate crème brulee is a better [chocolate] version of a
traditional dessert.
Never-to-be-missed are Biegnets with powdered sugar and crème
Anglaise. Made of a special unsweetened dough from a French cookbook, with milk
used instead of water, they are incredibly airy and positively addictive.
The ambiance at Per Diem is cool, hip, swanky, and
expressive of both the historical and the contemporary sides of the venue
decorated with definite class and style. High ceiling with fabric-covered light
fixtures, red and yellow leather chairs, a crystal chandelier enclosed in a cage
box; old and new, rust and gild in all the right places – the restaurant is
suitable for romantic dates as well as for friendly or business gatherings, and
offers private dining options for groups of 8-45.
Per Diem is located at 43 Sutter Street in San Francisco and
is open Monday-Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. and Saturday 6 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Call for reservations 415-989-0300 or visit www.perdiemsf.com.
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